Grapevine Clones
When ‘Dolly’ the sheep was cloned back in in 1996, the term ‘cloning’ raised lots of concerns. Might it, one day open a Pandora’s box from which there would be no return? Fortunately, at least date, none of the direst fears have come to be.
But in the vineyard, varietal ‘clones’ are a quite different and important tool in a winegrower’s box of options.
As our region’s growers become ever more able to match soils, climate and a myriad of other factors which go into the rather nebulous concept called ‘terroir,’ selecting an appropriate grape variety first, then the best varietal clone to match those circumstances will become ever more important. The finest wines in the world are regarded as such because over many, many years, vintners have always known that while the best wine is born in the vineyard, the best ones also match conditions provided by Mother Nature. As our winemakers continue their journey to making world class cool climate wines, selecting appropriate clones will become more and more important.
First a definition: a clone is a genetic variation from the mother grape plant.
The process of taking this plant’s genetic variation from accident on a vine to commercial success is an exceptionally long one. Certain clonal selections are less susceptible to rot and disease pressure, others throw more foliage, some deal better with heat stress or excess water. Some clones are more winter hardy, others have fewer [or more] clusters per vine, some ripen earlier, still others need an extended season. These variations often mean the difference between success and failure, especially in our cool climate when it comes to disease and winter hardiness.
The process begins in a vineyard where researchers carefully watch for mutations on individual plants among the thousands of vines in their research plots. They then clip the piece of wood [vine] on which the mutation occurred. The wood is put it through an identity process and is checked for any aberrant ‘viruses’ to assure specific characteristic are isolated and can be replicated in ‘clean’ vines.
From cuttings, hundreds of exact duplications of the original mutant are propagated. When successful, the new clone is then given a name or number [e.g., Chardonnay, Dijon, # 1 or 6 or 18 or 181]. After a year or two, young vines are planted in a research vineyard. Several years later, a crop is harvested. Then cooperating enologists [winemakers] make wine. When it is finally in a bottle, the wine is evaluated by a series of sensory panels. Only a few make it to commercial production. Along the way, many of the clones are discarded.
The unique clones that had grown best in the vineyard and produced the most desirable wines are selected and find their way into commercial vineyards. Three or four years later, commercial wines are released. As they go into distribution and the consumer ultimately identifies wines will claim their hard-earned dollars. The whole process often takes a decade or two or more.
Eventually, the best of the best win high ratings in magazines and the most ‘avid’ consumers begin asking for ‘Chardonnay, Dijon Clone # XXX [whatever the number] in tasting rooms across the country and hopefully here in northeast Ohio too.
Beyond an excuse for the ‘snobs’ to try and out-impress one another, why are clones even important? The grower will select vines that work best in the vineyard. A discernable consumer will note variations in the levels of tannin, of color intensity, in length of ‘finish’ in the glass, differences in ‘mouthfeel and ‘richness.’ Clonal varieties which ultimately succeed and meet both sets of needs will become the ‘winners.’
And even if you never notice the variations, talking about clones with a bunch of snobs may at least allow you to pretend you are really a ‘connoisseur’ too.
For more information: dwinchell@ohiowines.org